Mastering Route Reading: The Key to Bouldering Success

Route reading is working out your moves on a boulder problem before you climb it. These nine techniques are the basics.

Take your bouldering skills to the next level with fundamental route reading techniques

Route reading is an important aspect of bouldering that can significantly impact your performance on the wall. Essentially, route reading is the process of analysing and strategising your movements on a boulder problem before attempting to climb it.

Here Are 9 Essential Techniques for Route Reading

1. Pay attention to your surroundings

   Observe the surrounding terrain, rock formations, and vegetation to get a sense of the rock's natural features.
   
   

2. Look for handholds and footholds

   Keep your eyes peeled for small cracks, edges, and other features that can provide purchase for your hands and feet.
   
   

3. Analyse the sequence

   Consider the most efficient and effective order in which to tackle the moves on the route.
   
   

4. Plan your rests

   Identify potential rest points along the route where you can stop and recover before continuing on.
   
   

5. Consider the terrain

   Take into account the angle and slope of the rock face, as well as any overhangs or roofs.
   
   

6. Practise visualisation

   Close your eyes and visualise yourself completing the route, paying attention to your body positioning and movement.
   
   

7. Seek out beta

   Ask experienced climbers for tips and advice on the route, or watch videos of other climbers to see how they approached it.
   
   

8. Look for chalk and rubber

   Look out for signs of a previous climb, sometimes you can see specific finger placement. And look for rubber to show where your feet could go.
   
   

9. Study the angles

   Look at the angle of the holds as that shows the best direction to pull from and where is best for your body placement.

There are several key factors to consider when route reading, including the overall structure of the problem, the positions of holds and footholds, and the most efficient sequence of movements.

One key aspect of route reading is identifying and evaluating the various features of the boulder problem. This includes looking at the overall shape and structure of the problem, as well as the specific positions and sizes of holds and footholds. By analysing these features, you can begin to identify the most efficient sequence of movements to use on the problem.

Another important aspect of route reading is considering your own strengths and weaknesses as a climber. This may include factors such as your reach and flexibility. By considering your own abilities, you can better identify which holds and footholds will be most effective for you to use on the problem.

There are several ways to practise your route reading. One effective method is to simply spend time analysing and strategising on problems, even if you don't necessarily try to climb them. You can also seek out problems that are slightly outside of your ability range, as this will force you to really think about your movements and analyse the problem more carefully.

Another effective method is to watch and learn from more experienced climbers. Pay attention to how they analyse and strategise on problems, and try to emulate their techniques.

Overall, route reading is an essential skill for any boulderer to develop. By taking the time to analyse and strategise on problems, you can start each climb with a plan and enjoy a more rewarding climbing experience.

New to climbing? See why bouldering suits beginners.